Eleven South: Focused Fine Dining
By Buzz Thomas
Spaniards say legado. Italians say eredità. The French say héritage. We Anglophones say legacy. That’s the word that comes to mind when you consider John Nagy’s impact on the First Coast. He and his wife Karen Belloit Thomas are icons of North Florida’s culinary landscape. They’re responsible for bringing us 3 Palms Grille (now closed), City Grille and Raw Bar (the critically acclaimed new restaurant in San Marco), and their Jacksonville Beach flagship, Eleven South.
This year Eleven South celebrates its 20th anniversary. Many restaurants don’t make it 10, or even five years, much less 20—and it’s not just a matter of longevity. When someone asks about the top local restaurants, Eleven South is invariably on the list. The 12 cozy seats at the bar are some of the most coveted in town. Personally, I know all of this to be true, but I wanted to dig deeper with John and find out why this is the case. The conversation was as enlightening as it was enjoyable. The depth of his knowledge and insights indicate a rare passion for food and wine. As we talked, I found that the keys to Eleven South’s successes filter into three categories: the concept, the wines, and the service.
Today the term farm to table is part of every food enthusiast’s vernacular. It’s defined as a seasonal menu that changes four times a year and that connects with local purveyors to find the best local ingredients. Eleven South was one of the first restaurants to embrace this concept and bring it to the First Coast. With a strong focus on seafood, he and Karen coined the phrase “Ocean to Table” to describe Eleven South’s menu. Their aim was clean cooking, with many five-ingredient dishes utilizing wood-fire grilling. Our dishes for this particular tasting included a royal red shrimp appetizer (my personal favorite), crab cakes that are in no way passé, and an Australian 9+ Wagyu steak that exceeds the flavor of a marbled ribeye, yet doesn’t make you quickly tap out from the richness. The flavor and presentation were impeccable. It’s clear their commitment to the concept hasn’t wavered, resulting in the consistent, high-level dishes their patrons are accustomed to having.
Regular patrons are also accustomed to imbibing in the finest of wines. I wasn’t aware that Wine Spectator won’t bestow their Award of Excellence to any restaurant in their first year. That didn’t bother Eleven South. They sharpened their wine keys, polished their decanters, and curated a wine list that has earned them that prestigious award for a mind-boggling nineteen years in a row! A few selections from their list include: a Ruinart Blanc de Blancs champagne (Reims, France); a 2022 Hourglass Sauvignon Blanc (Napa/Sonoma); a magnum of 2011 Belle Glos Taylor Lane Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast); a French Chateau de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape; a Banfi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG from Tuscany; and a big, bold 2019 Checkerboard Kings Row, Diamond Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa. There are so many varietals from so many regions.
Our conversation turned toward service and staffing. Restaurateurs will tell you finding, and retaining, quality staff is one of their biggest challenges. As I was inquiring about creating a winning team, our server happened to be at the table, and he asked, “Jack, how long have you been here?” Jack smiled and proudly responded, “for all 20 years.” That response is a testament to the culture at Eleven South. Many are level one sommeliers, and with focused tutelage, they seem several levels higher. More impressive is their ability to read the table. If you want to engage and discuss the offerings, they interact at length. If you want minimal, quiet service, they will gladly oblige. Clearly, stellar service is as equally important as the menu and wine list.
To John, Karen, and the entire Eleven South staff, congratulations on a 20-year legacy of providing amazing food, exciting wines, and memorable service!
216 11th Avenue South, Jacksonville Beach, FL 32250, (904) 241-1112, www.elevensouth.com
For recipe and wine feature click below
